Performance upgrades

Exhaust: The stock exhausts (except that ugly 3rd generation red bull can) are all exceptional. They're loud when they need to be and perform well. A very interesting thing about the stock is that when you cover the exhaust (even with your hand), the motorcycle will shut down. This doesn't happen with aftermarket. If I really wanted to, I could look into why it's like that... Anyway, to swap out just the exhaust, unbolt some near the footpeg and where it meets the header. Put in an aftermarket (around $1000) and bolt in the new in same places. If your looking for a full exhaust system($1500+ easily), you'll have to go as far as removing the fairings in order to get in. Always more inexpensive to buy used, cuts the price more than half. On a side not, try starting the bike without headers and you'll see flames. Ride the bike without an exhaust and the bike will sound like redline at low RPM. So, do they make a difference? Just an exhaust will give you minimal gain, or possibly loss. With a full exhaust system, small gains are guaranteed. The gains can only be guaranteed under certain conditions though...you need a fuel management system...

http://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/8504-r6-exhaust-help-please/


Fuel management system: PC3 (or the newest: PCV) This system only works for fuel injected versions. Carb based bikes use dynojets, similar idea, but you have to get down and dirty with the bike. This is essentially a computer that is plugged in, easy. Remove passenger seat, unplug two sets of plugs and plug them into the Power Commander 3 in the correct spots and your set with installation. The only thing that remains is to tell it what to do with the Air/ Fuel ratio. Power Commander has done a great job with uploading several settings for many common exhausts and air filters. Connect the PC3 to a computer with USB and transfer settings via program.

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22274&page=7

Appearance: Fender eliminator, flush mounts, windscreens, spools

So... some of the easiest things to do from the start is cosmetic changes. Don't expect to see any performance gains, but do expect to catch some looks. One of the most common changes is getting rid of the bulky fender in back, this goes for any bike to be honest. They are like parachutes. Just look at it.

http://www.machus.net/2009/04/05/turn-signal-intergration-yamaha-yzf-r6-2002/

Plenty of room for a license plate, maybe even a billboard or something. Turn signals stick waaaaay out. And there has to be a bit of a drop and a reflector. There are plenty of fender eliminator kits on-line for $10 or less. Unbolt the stock fender directly from beneath and follow the instructions of the kit (usually bolt it directly where the old one was, unplug old turn signal and plug in new one) they keep it simple:

http://www.xdcycle.com/discount-motorcycle-accessories/Yamaha-c-67/?page=4

What is that, two small pieces of metal bolted together? Simple is sometimes just better. This one also looks like it can even be flipped, no need to bend any license plates. It also comes with turn signals.

Now, you may be wondering, what if it doesn't come with turn signals? Well, two options for that. You can either:
a) buy flush mount lights that hide cables and usually look smooth with rest of body. They replace front and rear turn signals. This may involve taking the tail (or front/side fairing if front) apart and bolting from inside. You may be able to get away with  just taking off the passenger seat.
b) buy an integrated turn signal kit. Less equipment sticking out. $20 kit usually that has adapters connecting turn signals into tail light. So when you put out signal, the tail light will blink on one side.

Windshield can be swapped by unscrewing 6-8 bolts if your going for a tint or the "speed bubble". Tints are fairly cheap($20), but the racing one will start reaching $100. The race bubble will smooth out the wind right above your helmet, compared to having it rush directly into the front of your helmet.

I mentioned getting bike stands in my first post, but your bike will need spools that bolt right onto bike. After they're on, bike stands will pop the bike right up and make work or cleaning soooo much easier. Why bike companies don't just install them at factory, I have no idea. They cost $5-10 at the dealer, make sure to use loc-tite on them, vibration from bike will undo them over time. People tend to get angry when those things just pop off and hit your car (or bike in my case).

I'd say those are top cosmetic changes people tend to make most off the bat. Cheap, much nicer appeal and helps out.

Choosing the right year and getting started

Yamaha released the sporty R6 in the new millenium, re-defining the definition of 600cc sport bikes. With a little over a decade, it's undergone several changes: engine, suspension, design, transmission, tires, etc. Despite the changes, a true enthusiast can always spot one a mile away (not just because there's one headlight on).
Quick run thru of major differences:
1st gen(2001-2002): Starting point. Carbs were the big thing. I hate having to clean carbs, so this is a big turn off for me.
2nd gen(2003-2005): Fuel injection is introduced (win!), better engine output, nicer look, also inverted forks for the 2005
3rd gen(2006-2009): Sleak new design, increased engine output(I feel it went down, despite the numbers), slipper clutch(cool, but not necessary), and for the non-R6S models it had the cheap little Red-Bull-can-looking "pipe" (embarrassing), some issue with RPM displaying higher than it really was
4th gen(2010-now): goes back to 2nd gen engine output with 3rd gen body style, 520-Chain Conversion, haven't tested this one yet, but I hear good things

Silver: 2nd Gen http://motor12sport.blogspot.com/2009_02_01_archive.html
Yellow: 3rd Gen indostiker.com
Red: 1st Gen members.fortunecity.it
Black: 4th Gen www.sw-superbikes.co.uk


One of the great things about bikes is modification. People change for looks, performance or both. I'll be modifying(although it's already modified) a 2nd gen R6, from intake to exhaust and suspension. A few cosmetics as well because you can always tell a new rider by that ugly rear fender. Ups and downs of modification and how to install. Installation is fairly much the same on all of them.

I highly recommend some bike stands, tools and riding gear. Bike stands make winter storage or just general work a lot easier. Factory Yamaha tools work, but getting real tools from Sears makes it night and day. Riding gear to keep you safe, road rash is no fun and neither is spending money to fix the bike. Leather jackets are nice, but get real warm in traffic or hot days. Get some nice gloves, helmet and maybe a tinted visor.